By Linda Murphy, aka “The Healthy Hiker”
My first hiking love is, and will always be, the Bruce Trail, especially the Blue Mountains section – my home club. Since my first backpacking trek in 2019 – a 3,000km mostly solo trek of the Pacific Crest Trail, U.S.A., the Bruce Trail has been my hiking training ground. In 2021, I started www.thehealthyhiker.ca and have been leading hikers from across Southern Ontario on weekly Saturday Bruce Trail hikes. In 2022, I completed a 40-day end-to-end of the entire trail, with many Healthy Hikers joining me for a day or more, in support of both the hike and the cause I was hiking for – local women’s shelters along the trail route. Since 2019, I have backpacked over 3,000 more km of Canadian and international wilderness trails, in Ireland, Ecuador, Nepal, and Patagonia, Chile…and every time, my preparation for those treks was ALL on the Bruce Trail – the terrain, the trail conditions, the rock scrambling, the breathtaking views, the weather, the way-finding – it’s amazing – and if there was ever any doubt, it IS enough.
Allow me to retrace my most recent hiking journey to the southern tip of South America, where ten women from Canada and the United States, bound by a shared love of wild places and big adventures, set out for EcoCamp Patagonia in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile.
Hiking boots packed, and spirits high, we crossed the vast Patagonia Steppe – an open sweep of grassland – while snow-capped peaks of the Andes slowly rose on the horizon. They didn’t just appear; they summoned us, and we couldn’t resist their call!
The journey south from the second most southern city in the world, Punta Arenas, was already a masterclass in Patagonian life. Hundreds of woolly sheep dotted the land, tended by mounted gauchos whose horsemanship felt timeless. Domestic llamas (“yamas,” as we quickly learned), watched us with mild curiosity, while wild hares streaked across the terrain. Overhead, massive condors circled on thermal currents, occasionally descending to feast. Before we even reached the park, Patagonia had begun telling its story.
Arrival day at EcoCamp Patagonia, delivered more than we imagined. Set against the dramatic backdrop of Torres del Paine, the eco-domes felt like a five-star alpine refuge: warm, welcoming, and deeply connected to the land. The food, the accommodations, the guides, and – most importantly – the women in this group were all over-the-top wonderful. Lifetime memories started forming immediately.
Day one on the trail marked our long-anticipated entry onto the legendary W Trek, a route many of us had dreamed about for years. From the first steps, the hike delivered thrills – and surprises. We hadn’t anticipated quite so many icy water crossings, but each one became another joyful challenge. We started early and didn’t stop until late afternoon, arriving at our dorm-style refugio cold, wet, and absolutely exhilarated. Support, laughter, and encouragement rippled down the line of hikers all day long. This was adventure – at its best.
Day two was, quite simply, wild. We woke in a dorm room shared with five bunkmates – instant university flashbacks – and followed our phenomenal local guides toward the center arm of the W. Crossing rushing waters and skirting the unreal turquoise of Lake Pehoé, we climbed into the French Valley along a steep, rocky, root-laced ascent. Lunch was unforgettable: seated across from a towering glacier-capped wall, we were treated to a perfectly timed mini-avalanche show, watching ice thunder down the mountain face in real time.
After hours of descent, we reached Refugio Paine Grande—this time trading bunks for tents. Not just any tents, but weather-proof, four-season shelters anchored firmly to platforms. That night, Patagonia tested them. Wind and rain howled, proving exactly why serious gear matters in serious places.
By morning, the weather had shifted dramatically, and day three became a “Plan B” day – and for that, I will be forever grateful. With risky conditions ahead, our Guides made the call to reroute us safely. Instead of hiking into a storm, we boarded a boat shuttle across Lake Pehoé, then transferred to our private van and headed to the roaring Rio Paine Waterfalls. Powerful, raw, and unforgettable, the falls reminded us that flexibility is a vital wilderness skill. Sadly, a group ahead of us, hiking IN the storm, did not fare so well. An international group of 12 set out for the mountain pass, only a few hours of hiking beyond our location, but thousands of feet higher. They ventured out into a horrendous storm without guides. They started out as 12, and 7 made it back to camp when conditions became unbearable. Five hikers perished. The knowledge of this tragedy weighed heavily on our minds and hearts for the remainder of our trip, but the gratitude for our expert Guides and their quick, decisive action was immense.
We returned to EcoCamp for restoration: yoga, sound bath therapy, gentle walks, and a group dinner in the Community Dome. What could have been a punishing day turned into a beautiful, safe one – thanks entirely to expert guiding.
Day four was our pinnacle moment: the ascent to the base of the famous Towers. Sun, wind, snow, and endless rock underfoot challenged us on the long out-and-back climb. Anticipating snow at higher elevations, our guides quickly outfitted us with perfectly sized traction spikes. While we witnessed other hikers struggling on slick terrain, we moved confidently and safely. Standing before the three granite towers – silent, massive, and watchful – was humbling beyond words.
Day five shifted from adrenaline to fascination. Led by expert trackers, we scanned grasslands for wildlife – and struck gold! Not once, but twice, we spotted a Puma. Add to that a Guanaco, a Coyote, and stark reminders of the food chain, as Patagonia revealed its raw, untamed heart.
Our final days unfolded back at EcoCamp, soaking in comfort, quiet, and reflection. Surrounded by mountains that had become companions, we celebrated nature’s resilience, fragility, and the urgent need to protect it. Hm…a familiar feeling echoing from my home trail to this one. Between the land, the weather, the wildlife, and the women who shared it all, our hearts were full. We were done…until next time.
Email: thehealthyhiker.ca@gmail.com / Website: www.thehealthyhiker.ca / Youtube: www.youtube.com/c/thehealthyhiker
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